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Expeditions: Speedriding in Nepal  18th June 2008Part of what I was doing in Nepal over the last 3 months included a series of attempts to launch my speedwing from various locations. the highest launch I made was only from just on 5200m - unfortunately weather conditions meant I was unable to make any flights from near the top of any bigger peaks. A speedwing is a small, fast cross between a Paraglider and a high performance skydiving canopy. The aim is fly the terrain and stay as close to the ground as possible. whilst foot launching these wings is a great deal of fun it's hard to interact with the terrain since your flying at speeds of 70+ km/hr. With ski's on your feet it is a whole lot more fun! Again conditions in Nepal meant that I was unable to use ski's .. oh well - it was still a whole lot of fun! I'm in the middle of doing a great deal of editing of the footage I have - however here is a raw version of a flight off Dingboche Ri at 5050m, just above Dingboche in the the Khumbu Valley. Landing was at 4200m
Posted by malrock on Tuesday, June 17 @ 18:49:53 EDT (428 reads)(comments? | Expeditions | Score: 0) Expeditions: Lhotse Images 11th June 08
I've just been busy uploading images to the Lhotse 08 Image gallery. I have some text up soon. You can view the Gallery HERE Posted by malrock on Wednesday, June 11 @ 02:02:28 EDT (459 reads)(comments? | Expeditions | Score: 0) Ice Climbing: Wye Creek Conditions  5th June 08Sent in by andrew Finnigan
I went for a walk over to Wye Creek to celebrate the queens birthday in the forlorn foolish hope that the coldest May since 1992 might have things starting early over there. There is 20-60cm of snow in the upper basins, with foot penetration of 10-30cm. Enough snow to skin but I wouldnt ski unless you dont mind putting holes in your skis. Snowshoes are the way. Irrelevant anyway because.... as expected, the ice aint ready yet. The lower tier is virtually non existent, Fear of Flying has touched down but is very thin. The usually frozen stream down from the upper tarns (all frozen) is still flowing. The northern flow under single cone is frozen but dodgy. Give it a few more weeks. I have put on two photos, one taken on the 2nd June 08 and another on the 18th of June 07. The other shot is of the pretty exceptional June snow cover in the upper basins. Oh, and im new to Qt and keen to find people to get out with as often as possible this winter. Gimme an email.. andrewfinnigan@hotmaill.com
Conditions - 2 June 08
Conditions 18th June 07
Posted by malrock on Thursday, June 05 @ 06:29:44 EDT (492 reads)(comments? | Ice Climbing | Score: 0) Expeditions: Lhotse Summit success Good News from Nepal....Mal Haskins summited 8516m Lhotse on 26th May. Expedition dispatches can be read at:www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/dcxp18Well done from the the crew back in NZ Posted by gav on Tuesday, May 27 @ 05:25:07 EDT (506 reads)(comments? | Expeditions | Score: 0) Expeditions: Nepal 08 - Pachermo / Kjayo Ri 21st AprilNamche BazzarA quick update - we recently finished a trip through the remote Rolawling Valley, crossing the Tashi Lapcha, climbing Pachermo (6273m) and then heading up into the Kyajo Ri Valley - located in a hidden hanging valley between Thame and Namche.The trip through the Rolwaling was sinply amazing and one which is rarely done - which means that we didn't see anyother westerners for about 3 weeks. The trip over the Tashi Lapcha is a demanding route climbing to 5760m which is hard on the like of westerners and Nepali porters alike.We were planing on doing this trip last year but were thwarted by a heavy snowfall prior to the expedition starting which made us change plans dramtically - however this year there was low snow fall and nothing to hold us back. The Kyajo Ri valley is another untouched spot in Solo Khumbu Region - a rare thing to find. It's a demanding valley with a very remote feeling however only being 1 1/2 days walk from Namche for well acclimatized groups. Despite heavy snowfall a 3 day snow fall and conditions which saw it too dangerous for our porters to help us carry loads the crew pushed on up the valley to establish camp 2 at 5650m allow Dave Alderson and Mal Haskins to make an attempt to climb via the SW ridge to the summit at 6180m. The pair encountered hard mixed climbing at the base of the route with green/blue ice on the remainder. A combination of exhaustion from load carrying - no food remaining at high camps, approaching turn around times and threatening bad weather saw them make the decision to turn around at approx 6000m. They then were able to load carry back down to base camp with the welcome help from the expeditions head porter / porters who arrived at camp 1.Images and more info will be uploaded after I get back to New Zealand Posted by malrock on Monday, April 21 @ 03:42:18 EDT (530 reads)(comments? | Expeditions | Score: 4) Website Updates: Updates  Namche Bazzar21st April 2008 It's been a while since I've been behind a keyboard writting updates on the VR site. It's been a pretty busy summer season mixed with a bit of carnage in the mountains. Right now I'm sitting in Namche - Kathmandu.Early this year we lost a friend and fellow guide - Anton Wopereis - after he fell on the summit rocks of Mt Cook whilst guiding a client. Antons death was felt heavily throughout the climbing and local communities - he's missed in many different areas of a wide variety of people's lives.Climbing in general in New Zealand in the late summer season has shown what some of the effects of human accelerated climate change could be bringing about. The serious lack of snowfall in in winter and spring brought the glaciers to an early bare state with the Linda Glacier route on Mt Cook becoming much more dangerous to negotiate earlier in the season than usual. General glacial conditions were pretty dry with significant abalation being seen through out the southern alps. Access to routes were cut of early season with wide shrunds and rock fall was seen to increase with a lack of snow/ice holding the rocks in place.The East Face of Vampire fell off ... Just to the left of the route - Far from the Madden Crowds and to the right of Not For Us 2 a headwall collapsed and blasted it's way down across the Muller glacier in a scene similar to that of the collapse of the East Face of Cook.
 Vampire Rock Fall
In other news from Nepal - Ulie Steck is attempting a alpine style climb of the North Face of Big Phera Go Shar (7000m+) from the Thame Valley - this is a wall that has seen 7 expeditions fail on various attempts. Uli will try and make a line up the right hand side of the obvious splitting ridge line - trying to avoid the hazard presented by the overhanging seracs above ... In 2006 he soled the north face of Cholatse (6440m)
 Big Phera Go Shar
Cholatse
Posted by malrock on Monday, April 21 @ 03:27:11 EDT (506 reads)(comments? | Website Updates | Score: 0) Mountaineering: Conditons on Aspiring - Mountaineering  6th DecemberThis new info info is about 6 days old - however since we've had little new snow and lots of high freezing levels (click here to see freezing level forecasts) general conditions will not have changed much - although normal summer changing conditions can be expected. Bridges will continue to weaken earlier in the day - shrunds will get harder to cross and walking back to the hut / camp in the afternoon will be a plugging.30th Nov - Marty Beare from Aspiring Guides Ramp - NW Ridge: Access to Ramp is via a bridge to looker's left, then a traverse to the right above a large bergschrund. It's getting tricky. Wet and settled snow conditions are making for a hard, slick surface after clear nights/freezes. Top-clip anchors are generally bomber in the morning, but beware of the sliding hazard. By mid-afternoon the crust has softened, and the top 50 cm is wet and loose. Beware weak snow, build multiple-point snow anchors, and do not overload anchors! The upper slopes are firm and icy, with short rock sections appearing. Ice cap has longer fingers of sastrugi. SW Ridge is easily accessed via foot of Ramp/West Face. The surface conditions are firm, icy crust, looser under-layers, with short fingers of sastrugi all the way to the couloir. The couloir is thin ice barely stuck to rock (no pro until ice melts). Bevan Col and French Ridge look ok from the air.__________________________________ Posted by malrock on Thursday, December 06 @ 16:05:17 EST (780 reads)(comments? | Mountaineering | Score: 0) Expeditions: Antartica Expedition 07 22nd NovBy Damien GildeaHi all,We're still waiting in Punta Arenas, Chile, all ready to fly to the ice for another season on Antarctica's high mountains.Camilo Rada, Pachi Ibarra and Jarmila Tyrril and I are attempting Mt Tyree and Mt Epperly. These peaks are currently the 2nd and 10th highest mountains in Antarctica, probably the most difficult, and the only high Sentinels that our Omega-supported expeditions have not climbed.We'll probably do some other climbs but those are our main objectives. Re-measuring those will bring to a close six years of expeditions and mapping that resulted in the new Vinson Massif & Sentinel Range map that many of you have seen.If you're receiving this then you will receive any dispatches of text and images that we send out from the ice. As usual you can also follow us and everyone else down South this year on www.thepoles.com. However this year you can also see us on Camilo's new website www.expenews.org A brief history of our past expeditions and some other information and updates can be seen on my personal site www.antarcticmountains.comBest Wishes,Damien, Camilo, Pachi & Jarmila Posted by malrock on Thursday, November 22 @ 21:12:39 EST (812 reads)(comments? | Expeditions | Score: 0) Mountaineering: Mt Aspiring Mountaineering Videos 22nd NovA few weeks ago I was up working on Mt aspiring when I ran into Craig Wigglesworth and his climbing partner Dave Lilley (www.davelilley.co.uk) on the helicopter ride into Bevan Col. I was in with Tim, working for Aspiring Guides and planning on heading up the ramp the next morning. Colin Tod hut was reportably quite full already with about 15 trying to squeeze into the available 12 bunks ....Craig and Dave shot off across the glacier being super keen and fit - When tim and I got to the hut the lads had found out they'd need to bivvy on the balcony - along with the 3 other climbers arriving via Bevan Col after leaving the road end that morning .. a long haul!Craig and Tim shot off super early and solo'd the ramp in very firm conditions - the left the hut and 2:30 am and were back by 9:30 - a quick rest and then off they fired again back over the bonar and out via the Quater Deck / French Ridge. Craig has posted some videos on YouTube .... enjoy
Part 1 - Approach
Part 2 - The Climb
Part 3 - Out
Posted by malrock on Thursday, November 22 @ 18:48:26 EST (891 reads)(comments? | Mountaineering | Score: 0) Mountaineering: Conditions - Mt Cook - Mountaineering 20th Nov Conditions in the Mt Cook National Park have been fairly favorable for general mountaineering with a recent dump of snow settling out and being consolidated by the higher temperatures recently. The high temps have meant that the snow has been fairly deep and hard plugging has been the order of the day. Shrunds are still well covered and crevasses still well filled. A climber needed a pick up from Sefton bivvy after dislocating his shoulder due to a very small fall into a crevasse on the way up to climb the footstool.  The high freezing levels (about 3600m) has meant that the snow surface has not been freezing overnight. A party was turned back on the East ridge of Dixon due to heavy balling up on the crampons made it too dangerous to continue - a good set of anti- balling plates are key! The freezing level is not forcast to drop for a few days so expect more deep plugging and poor freezes ...Gavin Lang and Dave Adlerson had an enjoyable if long trip up the East ridge of Cook and down the Linda - Gavin saya that the summit ridge was hard and blue - the lads did 8 pitches along the summit - exhausting work.There is no ice on the central gulles of Hicks or the south face of Cook - Al Uren and Julian White report that Vampire (Barron Saddle) is also in poor condition with respect to ice. Posted by malrock on Monday, November 19 @ 16:13:04 EST (943 reads)(comments? | Mountaineering | Score: 0) Site Search Downloads Total Downloads: 11Total Categories: 5Catalog Size: 1.81 MB Files Downloaded: 2079Total Served: 232.01 MB Newest DownloadsMt Cook Ski PLane rates 2007 / 2008DocumentsSpeed Riding - Foot Launching the Ozone Bullet from Pub CornerDocumentsTop Downloads#1Gear Failure Anaylsis[Hits: 549]Documents#2Bush Stream Guide Book - Web Version[Hits: 438]Guide Books#3Ski Plane Rates - West Coast[Hits: 271]Documents#4Snow Anchor Report[Hits: 205]Documents#5Snow Belays[Hits: 191]Documents#6Cobb Valley - topo's[Hits: 128]Topo and Images#7Topo of the South Face of Mallory - Fox Neve[Hits: 115]Topo and Images#8Sawyers Crag - Mt Cook[Hits: 111]Guide Books#9NZAC Publications price list[Hits: 66]Documents#10Mt Cook Ski PLane rates 2007 / 2008[Hits: 4]Documents Quick Links Total Links: 37Total Categories: 6Total Views: 28912Newest LinksMainly Tramping WanakaMountaineeringMount Everest The British StoryMountaineeringAconcagua UsMountaineeringRafting in NepalInternational TravelTrekking tibet AdventureInternational TravelAustralian Climbing ConsultantsRock ClimbingMountaineering, climbing and trekking KilimanjaroInternational TravelDirectoryOutdoor.comInternational TravelAdventure Travel NepalInternational Travel22,840 ft Aconcagua AdventuresMountaineeringTop Links#1Rebirth ResolesRock Climbing#2Arthurs Pass InfoNew Zealand - Southern Alps#3NZ Mountain Guides AssociationNew Zealand - Southern Alps#4Rock Climbing in Austria and beyond.Rock Climbing#5Avalanche AdvisoryNew Zealand - Southern Alps#6Armadale Travel - International travel agentInternational Travel#7Great Sights bus networkNZ Travel links#8Alpine Guide - France - Mountain Guide Adventure - ChamonixMountaineering#9Knots to knowMountaineering#10Intercity BusesNZ Travel links Sponsors  Recent News Wednesday, November 14· Conditions Mt Aspiring, Mountaineering (0)· Antartica - A chilling omen or a freak event? (0)Sunday, October 14· Mountaineering Videos (0)Friday, October 12· Short Clips of Speed Riding (0)Sunday, September 30· BaseClimb 3 - Meru Peak India (0)Sunday, September 16· Gallery Problem (0)Saturday, September 15· Wye Creek New Mixed routes and conditions (2)· Speed Riding (0)Thursday, September 13· New Routes on Conway - Mountaineering in New Zealand (0)Wednesday, September 12· Fox Conditions - Douglas and Conway (0)Monday, September 10· Peru Expedition Update 5 - Final (0)Sunday, September 09· Everest Peak Fees Slashed - Autumn and Winter (0)· Petzl Sarken Crampon Recall (0)Sunday, September 02· Wye Creek Ice Conditions (0)· Mt Cook - Skiplane rates (0)Sunday, August 19· Peru Expedition Update 4 (0)Saturday, August 04· Peru Expedition Update 3 (0)Friday, July 20· Peru Expedition Update 2 (0)· Roadside Ice climbing in New Zealand (0)· Black Peak Ice Climbing - Wanaka (0)· Major Peak Ice Climbing - New Routes Near Queenstown (0)· Cigar Creek Ice Climbing / Access (0)Thursday, July 19· South Island Ice Climbing - New Zealand (0)Wednesday, July 04· Wye Creek conditions - Ice Climbing (0)Tuesday, July 03· Ski touring Conditions - Remarkables / Wye Creek (0)· Lake Alta Ice Climbing (0)· Peru 2007 - Expedition update 1 (0)· Parahawking and the Himalayan Raptor Rescue Sponsorship Scheme (0)Wednesday, June 27· More Kiwi Expeditions - Peru (0)Thursday, June 21· Changing conditions (0)Older Articles News Feeds
 New Free Climbing Mag for USAFrom Dougald MacDonald's Blog:
Of all the things I saw at the Outdoor Retailer show while reporting for the trade show's daily paper, the most surprising was the news that a West Virginia–based team...Prime Minister summons Alan James and Mick Ryan to no. 10Was an everyday morning here in Ambleside, still raining of course. I get up, check emails, check my news feeds and write my list of things to do for the day. Downstairs and put the kettle on for a...News About Kendal Mountain FestivalThe latest on this years'
Kendal Mountain Festivals (KMFF) being held 20th - 23rd November 2008.
As reported at UKClimbing.com (Jun 27: Kendal Mountain Festivals Announce Headline Speakers) the...Future of DWS Comps? Steve McClure WinsBig things have been happening over in Denmark! The Bornholm Deepwater Climbing Festival has now finished, and it looks like the guys and girls had a great day. Two artificial walls were erected...Local News: Major Jersey Line ClimbedOn the 15/08/08, James Noble head-pointed a first ascent on the Rabbits Head South Face on Jersey, naming the route Authentic Desire E7 6c. The line had previously seen interest from Gibson and...Pembroke Campsites Closed?Several UKC users are reporting that all camp-sites around Bosherston in South Pembroke are closed due to flooding. If you are making your way there for the Bank Holiday weekend, then it is...Well-known Guide Dies in New Zealand AlpsLate in the afternoon of August 14, while guiding the New Zealand Prime Minister Helen Clark, her husband Peter Davis, and several other of the Prime Minister's colleagues, including Energy and ...Just how is the BMC funded?Gone are the days when you could run an organisation like the BMC from a dusty backroom with a single filing cabinet.
Representing a touch over 65,000 members and employing 25 full-time staff,...Lucy Creamer at Raven Tor: F8b link-upLucy Creamer has been keeping her sport climbing fitness high at Raven Tor, climbing the F8b link-up of Weedkiller Traverse in to Chimes of Freedom.
She said: "It's really quite a cool line actually...Keith Sharples - Be in My Calendar CompetitionThere were 30 entries for the Keith Sharples - Be in My Calendar Competition where you had to answer 6 multiple choice questions.
The competition is now closed.
Keith will be announcing the...Americans Complete ‘Astroman of Peru’Dave Anderson and Brady Robinson have free-climbed the full version of Karma de los Condores (V 5.11+R) in the Ishinca Valley of Peru, completing a 14-pitch route that tops out at around 14,500...Local News: North Wales Quarry ActionOn Friday the 15th of August James McHaffie and Pete Robins set to work on a 1 day attempt of The Quarryman E8 7a, Johnny Dawes' famous four-pitch slate masterpiece. Various pitches of the route...Pringle Succeeds on Cobra Crack: 3rd ascent"Great Success Gypsy! The Cobra Crack is complete! Yes, the world continues to turn. President Bush is still the leader of the “free world”, 37 year old Kelly Slater has just about clenched his 9th...Eight feared dead in Mont Blanc avalancheHope was fading fast last night for eight mountaineers missing near Mont Blanc after a powerful avalanche caused one of the deadliest accidents to hit the French Alps in decades.
More than 15... New Online Hiking Gear Store for Day Hikers 11 feared dead on K211 feared dead on K2 Lisa Rands send Nutsa (V12) Matt Segal Establishes 5.14- trad route, Independece Pass, Colorado A 45 MPH Launch from a Moving Vehicle…Did OtterBox Survive? Emily Harrington, Matt Segal Join North Face TeamClimbers join team of over 40 athletes.©
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