The climbing dictionary
New address – update your bookmarks!!http://home.tiscalinet.de/ockier/climbing_dict.htmAfter years of inactivity, I’ve finally gotten around to updating theclimbing dictionary. At the same time, the dictionary has moved to a differentlocation. Please make sure you update your bookmarks.
The Climbing Dictionary
Welcome to The Climbing Dictionary !!!This dictionary givesdefinitions of American and English climbing terms and translations of thoseterms in other languages. If you have anything to contribute to this dictionary(remarks, comments, new or better definitions, corrections, other language ?),then mail me (in either English, French, German, or Dutch).Your help is gratefully acknowledged (even though it might take a while before Iupdate the dictionary). !! If you intend to sue me, then read this disclaimer first. You can of course also addthis page as a link to your home page. The terms in this list aresorted alphabetically in English. The translations are labeled as follows: (d)German, (f) French, (f-c) Québécois, (nl) Dutch, (i) Italian, (e) Spanish, (s)Swedish, (pl) Polish, (sl) Slovak. I do not have the terms in Japanese, but ifyou want to see them (you'll need Japanese characters though), go to the Japanese version of the climbingdictionary. (Butplease, don't e-mail me in Japanese).Terms related the style ofascent ('Flash', 'Redpoint', etc.) tend to be subject to differentinterpretations. Some other interestingclimbing information on this server: Climbing in the Harz. (no longer updated!) Climbing ratings and grades. A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y ZA Abseil, to Descending by sliding down a rope. Americansusually call this rappelling.(d) Abseilen, (f) Descendreen rappel, (nl) Afdalen/abseilen, (i) Doppia, fare una doppia, (e) Rapelar / descensoen rappel, (s) fira, (pl) Zjazd na linieAdze The flat cutting end of the ice axe head.(pl) Lpatka czekanaAid climbing Moving up a rock using fixed or placedprotecting as a means of progression (and not just for protection). Also knownin the US as sixth class climbing. (d) Technisch klettern, (f) Escalade artificielle, (nl) Artificieel klimmen,(i) Arrampicata artificiale, (e) Escalada artificial, (s) Teknisk klättring /Artificiell klättring, (pl) HakowkaAider Webbing ladder used for aid climbing. The wordwas probably coined by someone who couldn't spell the french word étrier. (d) Leiter, (f) Étrier, (nl) Ladder, (i) Staffa, (e) Estribo, (s) Stegar, (pl)Laweczka podciagowaAid route Route that can only be ascended using aid climbingtechniques (d) Techno-route, (f) Voie d'artif, (i) Via in artificiale, (e) Ruta artificialAlcove A belay ledge that is surrounded by verticalrock on all sides. (pl) NyzaAlpinebutterfly Butterfly knot. AMSAcutemountain sickness. (Ask your medical doctor.)(pl) Ostra choroba gorskaAnchorPointwhere the rope is fixed to the rock. (d) Fixpunkt/Verankerung, (f) Point d'assurage, (f-c) Point d'ancrage, (nl)Zekeringspunt, (i) Ancoraggio, (e) Anclaje / Punto de seguro, (s) Ankare /Förankring, (pl) Punkt asekuracyjnyAreteAnarrow (more or less - but often more less than more - horizontal) ridge.(d) Grat, (f) arête, (nl)graat, (i) cresta, (e) cresta / cuchilla, (pl) grzebien, (sl) hrebenAscendersDevices (e.g.Jumars) to ascend a rope.(d) Steigklemmen, (f) Jumars / Poignées ascensionnelles, (nl) Stijgklemmen, (i)Maniglie/Ascensori, (e) Ascensores / Jumars, (s) Repklämmor, (pl) ZaciskATC'AirTraffic Controller', belaying device made by Black Diamond. AvalancheLots ofsnow or ice sliding down a mountain.(d) Lawine, (f) Avalanche,(nl) Lawine, (i) Valanga, (e) Avalancha, (s) Lavin, (pl) Lawina BBail, toTo giveup on a rock climb or a summit attempt because of bad weather coming in. Barn door, toTo losethe foot and hand holds on one side of the body. Usually causes the climber toswing like a barn door.(f) partir endrapeauBase campThelowest and largest fixed camp on a major ascent (or multiple ascents in thesame area). (d) Basislager, (f) Camp debase, (nl) Basiskamp, (i) Campo base, (e) Campamento base, (s) Basläger, (pl)Obozowisko BeerLiquidconsumed in large quantities after climbing.(d) Bier, (f) bière / mousse, (f-c) broue, (nl) bier / pintje, (i) birra, (e)cerveza, (s) öl, (pl) piwo, (sl) piwoBelay, toTosecure a climber. (d) Sichern, (f) Assurer , (nl) Zekeren, (i) Assicurare, (e) Asegurar / Darseguridad, (s) Säkra, (pl) Ubezpieczac Belay Betty and Belay BobThegirl or boyfriend of an addictive rock climber.(d) SicherungsmaschineBelay stationA safe stance consisting of an anchor, a rope, and abelayer (aka "the belay")(d) Standplatz, (f) Relais, (nl) Standplaats, (i) Sosta, (e) Punto deencuentro, Reunión, (s) Standplats, (pl) Stanowisko BelayerTheperson at the belay station securing the climber. (d) Sicherungsmann/frau, (f) Assureur, (nl) Zekeraar, (i) Assicuratore/trice,(e) Asegurador, (s) Säkringsman, (pl) Asekurant"Belay on"Whenthe belayer is ready to belay the climber up, he yells "Belay on".(At least in the US, "belay on" would only confuse the hell out of aBritish climber who prefers to hear "Climb when ready"). (d) "nachkommen", (f) "quand tu veux", (f-c)"assuré", (nl) "nakomen", (i) "puoi venire", (e)"sube" / "vienes", (s) "säkring klar", (pl)"asekuracja gotowa" / “asekuruje”"Below"Used inBritain to warn for impending impact with objects coming from above (e.g.falling rock). "Rock" in the US. (d) "Stein", (f) "Caillou" ("Pierre" is a commonFrench name and might cause confusion with those individuals that respond tothat name), (f-c) "Roche", (i) "Sasso", (e)"Piedra", (s) "Sten" Bent gate karibinerKaribinerwith the gate bent to accept the rope more easily. Not uncontroversial. (d) Bananenkarabiner, (f) Mousqueton à doigt incurvé, (i) Moschettone a barraricurva, (e) Mosquetón express, (s) Karbin med böjd grind, (pl) Karabinek zlekko otwierajacym sie zamkiem (d) "Berg Heil !"AGerman greeting at the summit. BergschrundOr just 'schrund'. The top crevasse in a glacier or snowfield that is formed when theglacier/snowfield tears away from the remaining patch of snow that is stable onthe mountainside.(d) Bergschrund, (f) RimayeBetaInsiderinformation about a climb. Running or auto beta is someone telling you how todo the moves as you go (as in "can you please shut up with that runningbeta, I want to find out myself"). (d) Informationen vor dem Start, (f) Description de la voie, (i) Informazioni Beta flashLeadinga climb with no falling or dogging, but with a piece of previous knowledgehints on how to do those crux moves. Even seeing someone do the climb alreadyclassifies as 'previous knowledge'. (d) Flash mit Ansage, (f) Flash Big wallRockclimb that is so long and sustained that a normal ascent lasts several days. (d) Big Wall, (f) Grande paroi / grande falaise, (f-c) Grand mur, (e) GranPared, (s) Storöägg / Bigwall BinerShortfor Karabiner(d) Kara, (f) Mousquif / Moustif, (e) Mosquete / Mosquetón, (s) Karbin, (pl)Karabinek BirdbeakA tinyhooked piton manufactured by A5. It is similar to the old Chouinard"Crack'n up", except that it only has a single side and that it isintended to be hammered in if necessary.(pl) Rodzaj skajhukaBivouacOrshort, bivi. An uncomfortable sleeping place in the middle of a route. (d) Biwak, (f) Bivouac, (nl) Bivak, (i) Bivacco, (e) Bivac, (s) Bivack, (pl)Biwak Black iceOld icethat was exposed to extremely cold temperatures, scree, and snowfall. Usuallyfound deep in shady couloirs, or on steep north faces. Very hard and dense icethat is difficult to climb. (f) Glace noire, (pl) CzarnylodBlast, toTobegin a big wall, after the line fixing is done. "We're gonna blast onTuesday morning after we get the first three pitches fixed".(f) BleausardSomeonewho frequents 'Bleau (or Fontainebleau, the site of some excellent boulderingnear Paris). Blue iceVerydense ice with a watery hue and few air bubbles. Bolt (d) Bohrhaken, (f) spit / scellement, (i) spit, (e) spits / bolt, (s) bult,(pl) spitBolt, expansion(d)Bohrhaken, (f) Cheville à expansion, (nl) Boorhaak, (i) Caviglie da espansione,(e) Piton de expansion, parabolt, (s) Borrbult BomberUsed toindicate that something is exceptionally solid, e.g. an anchor, a hold. Seealso bombproof. (e) Firme, (s) Kanon BombproofTheillusion that an anchor is infallible(d) Bomben sicher, (f) béton (i) A prova di bomba, (e) A prueba de bomba, (s)Bombsäker BoneheadA(novice) climber with more braves than brains. Knows just enough about climbingto get himself and others badly hurt.BongAnalmost extinct species of extra wide pitons. Now, large chocks are usually usedinstead. (f) "Bonne Grimpe !"Agreeting to climbers when they start the climb. (e) "¡Buenasuerte!" BootieGear(nuts, cams, etc.) that was left behind on a climb by the previous party.Boulder, toClimbingunroped on boulders or at the foot of climbs to a height where it is still safeto jump off. (d) Bouldern (f) Faire dubloc, (nl) Boulderen, (i) Arrampicare su masso, (e) Boulder / Cascarear Bounce, toTocrater from an extreme height. Usually lethal. (d) Todessturz, (pl) Obdijac sie skokami przy zjezdieBowlineSailingknot (not to be used for climbing, unless backed up with a second knot)(d) Bulinknoten/Palstek, (f) Noeud de chaise, (nl) Paalsteek, (i) (Nodo)bulino, (e) Bulín, (s) Pålstek, (pl) Wezel tatrzanski Brain bucketAkahelmet. That all important hard shelled thing that covers our (second?) mostvaluable asset. BucketA largehold (Aka "jug", esp. in UK) (d) Henkel, (f) Bac/baquet, (nl) bak, (i) Fibbia / Vasca, (e) Asa / gasa, (s)Brevlåda BuilderingToclimb buildings(d)Fassadenklettern, (f-c) Escalade de ville, (nl) Geveltoerisme, (e) Escaladaurbana, (s) Fasadklättring, (pl) Wspinanie po murachBust a move, toTosuccessfully execute a hard crux move.Butterfly knotInterestingbut rarely used climbing knot. Alpine butterfly (f-c) Noeud papillon / les oreilles du Micky ??, (e) Nudo de mariposa, (pl)MotylekButtressThepart of the mountain or rock that stands in front of the main mountainface. (d) Vorbau / Pfeiler, (f)Pillier, (i) Pilastro, (e) Espolón, (s) Pelare, (pl) Pochyly filar CCamGenericreference to the family of spring loaded camming devices (SLCD) such asfriends, camalots, aliens, TCUs, etc. Also referred to as springs (d) Friends, (f) Friends, (e) Levas, (pl) KrzywkaCampusA dyno executedusing the arms only. Comes from the campus board where the people who do thismove get the muscle to do it. (d) Frei hängend Campus boardAwooden training board with finger ledges that is used for training dynos andfinger power. (d) Hangelbrett, (f) Planched'entraînement, (e) Tabla de entrenamiento CarabinerThealternative American spelling of the word Karabiner. Also spelled Caribiner.ChalkMagicpowder that makes the hands stick to even the smoothest rock. (d) Chalk/Magnesia, (f)Magnésie, (nl) Magnesiumpoeder, (i) Magnesia, (e) Magnesio, (s) Krita, (pl)MagnezjaChauseyPoorrock conditions. Also spelled chossy. Cheese grater, to Toslide down a slab while scraping the knees, hands, and face. Chest harnessBra-likelooking harness (to be used with waist harness) (d) Brustklettergurt, (f) Harnais, (nl) Borstgordel, (i) Cinghia pettorale, (e)Arnés de pecho, (s) Bröstsele, (pl) upzraz piersiowaChickenheadSometimesphallic shaped, protruding lumps that make excellent hand or footholds ongranite, etc. (d) Zacke / Felsköpfel, (f-c) Banane, (e) Chile / cuerno, (pl) Duzy, owalnywystep skalnyChimedExhausted."This climb has got me chimed."ChimneyA widecrack that accommodates (most of) the body of the climber. (d)Kamin, (f) Cheminée, (nl) Schoorsteen, (i) Camino, (e) Chimenea, (s) Kamin,(pl) KominChimney, toAclimbing technique used to conquer chimneys. Usually requires the use of theback and feet, arms, head and other body parts. (d) Stemmen, (pl) Zapieracsie w kominieChipped holdA holdcreated with a hammer and chisel by a moron incapable of doing the climb as itis. (d) Geschlagener Griff, (f) Prise taillée, (i) Presa scavata, (s) Chippadegrepp, (pl) Chwyt 'rzezbiony' dlutem ChockGenericreference to the family of passive wired protection devices, also called nuts,stoppers, wires, and rocks. (f) coinceurs, (e) Nueces ChockstoneA stonewedged between a crack, a chimney, etc. (f) Bloc coincé, (s) Kilsten,(pl) Kamien yaklinowany w rysie ChossInAustralia, this means poor rock (you can take all the holds home...). In theUK, choss is dirt and vegetation found in cracks (or Munge in the US). ChuteA verysteep gully. The word chute is French for fall and refers to therockfall that is very common in a chute.(pl) ZlebCirqueA deepand steep-walled basin on a mountain usually forming the blunt end of a valley.From the French word for circus. Also known as corrie.ClassA numberdesignating the overall technical level of a route. The first number in the YDSdesignates the class of the climb. Here's the different classes... (e) Clase CleanClimbingwithout falling or dogging. (f) Enchaicirc;ner (une voie), (e) Escalada limpia CleanAidclimbing without hammering. (e) Limpiar Clean, toToremove the pro from a route. Usually done by the follower. (d) Abbauen / Ausraümen, (pl) Sciagnac asekuracjeCliffA verticalpiece of rock good for climbing (see also Crag). (d) Fels, (f) Falaise, (nl)Rots, (i) Falesia, (e) Risco, (s) Klippa, (pl) Skala CliffhangerNotjust a silly film with Wolfgang Güllich and Ron Kauk, but also the name for asmall hooking device used to aid climb up small ledges and pockets. Climb, to(d) Klettern,(f) Grimper, (nl) Klimmen, (i) Arrampicare/scalare, (e) Escalar, (s) Klättra,(pl) Wspinac sie Climb, a(d)Kletterei, (f) Escalade, (nl) Klim, (i) Arrampicata , (e) Escalada, (s) Led/Tur"Climbing"Whatthe climber shouts after the belayer screams "Belay on". (d) "Komme", (f) "Départ", (nl) "Ik kom", (i)"parto"/"vengo", (e) "Voy", (s) "Jagklättrar", (pl) "Ide"Climbing gymThesecond best thing to real rock (Aka "wall" in the UK). (d) Kletterhalle, (f) Mur d'escalade / Salle d'escalade, (nl) Klimzaal/Klimhal,(i) Palestra, (e) Muro artificial de escalada, (s) Inomhusvägg Climbing shoesShoes madeof sticky rubber that would have fit you comfortably when you were ten. (d) Kletterschuhe, (f) Chaussons d'escalade, (nl) Klimschoenen, (i) Scarpe daroccia / scarpette / pedule, (e) Pies de gato / tenis de escalada,(e-argentina) pedulas / zapatillas de escalada, (s) Klätterskor, (pl) Pantofle/ buty wspinaczkoweClimbing wallTheBritish word for a climbing gym. "Climb when ready"TheBritish equivalent of "Belay on". (f) “Quand tu veux”, (e) "Cuando estés listo", (e-argentina)"veni", (pl) "Mozesz isc"Clip, toThereassuring action of putting the rope through a karabiner (that is attached toa piece of pro). (d) Einhängen, (f) Mousquetonner, (pl) wpiac sieClove hitchAuseful, easily adjustable climbing knot usually used to tie the rope into akaribiner. (d) Mastwurf, (f) Noeud de cabestan, (i) Nodo barcaiolo, (e) Cola de cochino,(s) Dubbelt halvslag, (pl) Wyblinka ColAsteep, high mountain pass. (f) Col, (pl) Siodlo CoombeWelshword for corrie or cirque. Also spelled cwm.CordThinstatic rope (5, 5.5 or 6 mm) (d) Reepschnur, (f) Cordelette, (nl) Prusiktouw, (i) Cordino, (e) Cordino /cordeleta, (s) Repsnöre, (pl) RepsznurCornerInsidecorner (see dihedral) oroutside corner. In the UK, a corner is always an inside one.(f) Dièdre, (i) Diedro, (e) Esquina, (s) Hörn, (pl) Zaciecie Corn snowUnconsolidatedgranular snow that has gone through a short freeze-and-thaw process. This typeof snow is prevalent throughout the High Sierra in April and May. (f) neige de printemps, (pl)snieg kukurydzianyCorrieOtherword for cirque. Spelled coire in Scotland and coombe orcwm in Wales.CouloirA steepgully which may have snow or ice. (f) Couloir, (pl) Kuluar CrabShortfor Karabiner.Crack, in rockA gapor fissure in the rock varying in width from nail to bodywidth. (d) Riß, (f) Fissure, (nl) (Rots)-spleet, (i) Fessura, (e) Grieta, (s) Spricka,(pl) RysaCragNamefor a (small) climbing area. (d) Klettergarten, (f) Falaise, (i) Falesia, (s) Klippa, (pl) SkalaCramponsVerypointy footware use to walk glaciers or climb ice. (d) Steigeisen, (f) Crampons, (nl) Stijgijzers, (i) Ramponi, (e) Crampones, (s)Stegjärn, (pl) Raki Crank, toTo pullon a hold as hard as you can, and then some. (d) Durchziehen, (pl) Wspinac sie w rysach Crater, toTo falland hit the ground, as in "I almost cratered". (f) Se gaufrer/se vautrer/seplanter/dévisser, se viander, (s) Kratra, (pl) glebowacCrestThevery top of a ridge or arete. (pl) Ostrze grzbietuCrevasseA crackin the surface of a glacier. (d) (Gletscher-)spalte, (f) Crevasse, (nl) (Gletscher-)spleet, (i) Crepaccio,(e) Grieta, (s) Glaciärspricka, (pl) szczelina lodowcowaCrimperA verysmall hold that accepts only the finger tips. In the UK, this is just called acrimp.(d) Kratzer / Pinchi, (f)Gratton, (i) Tacca, (e) Grieta de dedos CruxThehard bit. (d) Crux/Schlueßelstelle, (f) Le pas/Crux/passage clé, (nl)Sleutelpassage, (i) Passo chiave, (e) Paso clave, (s) Krux, (pl) Najtrudniejszyprzechwyt, wyciag na drodze CwmTheWelsh spelling for coombe or cirque. D Daisy chainA slingsewn (or tied) with numerous loops, used as an adjustable sling in aidclimbing. Deadpoint Adynamic move where the next hold is grabbed at the very top of the motion (ifyou lunge upwards, that is just before you start falling again). By grabbing ahold in its 'deadpoint', you place the smallest possible loads on the holds.(d) Greifen im toten Punkt, (f) Jeté, (pl) Wspinanie dynamiczne Death wobblesTheeerie sensation of jittery legs. Aka to Elvis or the sewing machine.DeckThe usuallyunfriendly surface that welcomes you at the end of a grounder. DemigodHighestform of life in the climbing cosmos. Does not need rock to ascend to greatheights.DescenderDeviceused for rappelling. (d) Abseiler, (f) descendeur, (i) discensore, (e) descensor, (s) firningsbroms,(pl) przyjazd zjazdowy DihedralThe USterm for an inside corner (Aka"open book"). (d)Verschneidung, (f) Dièdre, (nl) Versnijding/hoek, (i) Diedro, (e)Diedro, (s) (Inner-) hörn / Dieder "Dirt me"USslang which means as much as 'Lower me'. (d) "Ablassen" / "Nach" Dog (to dog a move)Climbing,lowering, climbing again till a certain move is made (the usual mode ofascent...). (d) Ausbouldern, (nl) Jo-jo Double fisherman's knotSolid knotused to tie two ropes or pieces of webbing together (Aka grapevine knot). (d) Doppelter Spierenstich,(f) Double noeud de pêcheur, (nl) Dubbele visserssteek, (i) Nodo a contrastodoppio/nodo doppio inglese, (e) Nudo de pescador doble, (s) Dubbel fiskarknop Double ropeSame asa half rope. Also the technique using two half ropes. (d) Doppelseil, (f) Corde àdouble, (i) Corda doppia, (e) Cuerda doble, (s) Dubbelrep DownclimbingDescendingthe difficult way. (d) Abklettern, (f)Désescalader, (nl) Afklimmen, (i) disarrampicare / Arrampicare in discesa, (e)Destrepar / Desescalar, (s) Nedetklättring Dry tool, toToascend a section of rock using ice tools - very common in mixed climbing.DudeGenericname for a climber (in the US). Dynamic belayA belaymethod in which some rope is allowed to slip during severe falls. A dynamicbelay can severely reduce the impact force from a serious fall, but can alsoseverely kill you if not done properly. (d) Dynamische Sicherung, (f) Assurage dynamique, (i) Sicura dinamica /assicurazione dinamica, (e) Seguro dinámico, (s) Dynamisk säkring, (pl)asekuracja dynamicznaDynoDynamicmovement towards a distant hold. (d) Dynamo, (f) Jeté, (nl)Dynamo, (i) Lancio, (e) Movimiento dinámico, (s) Dynamisk move EEBA legendarybrand of sport climbing shoes - started the free climbing revolution.EdgeA sharpedge on a rock face. (d) Kante, (f) Graton, (i)Spigolo / lama, (e) Orilla, (s) Kant, (pl) KantEdgingFoottechnique where one uses the edge of the climbing shoe to stand on smallfootholds. The opposite of smearing. (d) Kanten, (f) Gratonner, (e) cantear Elvis, toTo havea sewing maching leg. Named after "Elvis, the King", who suffered from thisthis problem when singing before a crowd of screaming women. (d) Nähmaschine, (e)motoneta, (pl) telegrafowacEpicThestory of a well planned climb that turned into a grueling adventure that turnedout well in the end. As these stories are told over and over again - and theyalways are - the details get stretched to supernatural proportions for dramaticeffect. (d) Eine Geschichte, (f) Epopée (e) Historia épica Etrier(Pronouncewith a french accent). Webbing ladder used for aid climbing. Also known as'aider'. (d) Leiter, (f) Étrier, (nl)Ladder, (i) Staffa, (e) Estribo, (s) Stegar FFace climbingNotcrack climbing. (d) Wandklettern / Plattenklettern, (nl) Wandklimmen, (f) Grimper en dalle, (i)Arrampicata su parete/Arrampicata in placca, (e) Escalada exterior, (s)Väggklättring, (pl) wspinaczka po plycieFall, toAdynamic retreat from a climb (free-solo rappel). Note that it is never the fallthat kills, it's the landing. (d) Stuerzen, (f) Prendre unplomb / Voler / Tomber, (nl) Vallen, (i) Cadere / Volare, (e) Caer / volar, (s)Ramla, Falla, (pl) odpasc"Falling"Yelledwhen a climber is (about to) fall. (d) "ich stürze",(f) "bloque" (eqv. to 'tension'), (nl) "ik val", (i) "volo", (e) "caigo",(pl) “lece”Fall factorThelength of the fall divided by the amount of rope paid out. (d) Sturzfaktor, (f) Facteurde chute, (i) Fattore di caduta, (e) Factor de caída, (s) Fallfaktor FecoFileA PVCtube used to store solid human waste on big walls. Aka the Shit Tube. FeetFootholds.Fifi hookAn openhook used to allow easy clipping during aid climbing. Usually found on aiders,daisy chains, etc. (d) Fifihaken, (f) Fifi, (i) Gancio fiffi, (e) Fifí, (s) Fiffikrok Figure 8Metalrappelling/belaying device shaped like an 8.(d) Achter/Abseilachter, (f) Descendeur en huit (Huit), (nl) Acht, (i) L'otto(il discensore), (e) Ocho, (s) Åtta, (pl) Osemka Figure of eightVerypopular and solid tie-in knot.(d) Achtknoten, (f) Noeud en huit (Huit), (nl) Acht/achtknoop, (i) Nodo a otto/ Savoia inseguito, (e) Nudo de ocho, (s) Åttaknut, (pl) Osemka FingerlockMasochistictechnique to twist and wedge the fingers into a crack. (d) Fingerklemmtechnik in Rissen, (f) Verrou (de doigt), (nl)Vingerverklemming, (i) Incastro di dita, (e) Encuñadura de dedos, (s) FingerjamFirnOld,well consolidated snow. Often a left-over from the previous season. Closer to icethan snow in density, it may require the use of crampons. Fisherman's knotSimpleknot to tie two ropes together. The double fisherman knot, however, is morepopular.(d) Spierenstich, (f) Noeudde pêcheur, (nl) Visserssteek, (i) Nodo a contrasto semplice, (e) Pescador, (s)Fiskarknop Fixed proBolts,rings, pitons, stuck nuts and cams and other piece of unremovable pro that maybe found on a climb. Use at your own risk.Flail, to To become very unsure and sketchy.When the flailing goes into frantic grabbing for holds, a fall is not far away.Flake A thin bit of rock that is detached from themain face. (d) Schuppe, (f) Écaille, (i) Scaglia, (e) Laja, (s) flak, (pl) Pletwa Flapper A piece of skin torn off your hand that createsa bloody wound. Usually happend when holding on too hard when gravity iswinning. FlaredA crackor chimney with sides that are not parallel, but instead form two convergingplanes of rock. Flash, toTo leada climb with no falls or dogging and with no previous attempts on the climb.Two variations exist: the onsight flash (where the climber has never seen theclimb before) and the beta flash (where the climber has studied the climbbefore or has seen someone do the climb). See there. (f) Enchaîner en tête FollowingNot leadinga climb. (d) Nachsteigen, (f) Grimper en second / Grimper en moulinette, (nl) Naklimmen,(i) Seguire (andare da secondo), (e) Segundear / escalar de segundo, (s) Följa,(pl) Chodzic na drugiego Free climbingMoving upa rock using only hands, feet, and natural holds. Ropes and pro are only usedfor protection of the climber and not for progression. (d) frei klettern, (f) escalade libre, (nl) vrijklimmen, (i) scalata /arrampicata libera, (e) escalada libre, (s) friklättring, (pl) wspinaczkaklasycznaFree soloFreeclimbing while using no ropes for protection. You fall - you die.(d)Free solo klettern, (f)Solo intégral, (nl) Solo, (i) Arrampicata in solitaria, (e) Escalada solitaria/ Superlibre, (s) Frisolo FriendTradename for the original camming devices, now also available as Camalots, TCU's,Quads, Aliens, Big Dudes, etc. GGasThestuff your car and muscles run on. If you run out of gas.... GateThepart of the karabiner that opens.(d) Schnapper, (f) doigt,(nl) snapper, (i) leva, (e) pestillo, (e-argentina) leva, (s) grind, (pl) zamekkarabinka Gerry railA holdlarge enough for the most senior climbers.GlacierAslowly moving permanent mass of ice. (d) Gletscher, (f) glacier, (nl) gletscher, (i) ghiacciaio, (e) glaciar, (s)glaciär, (pl) lodowiec GnarlyDifficult,sharp, hard. Usually in reference to a hold or move.God-save-meThetype of hold one lunges for hoping it will be the perfect bucket. GoombaNoviceclimber who thinks he knows it all. Unlike boneheads,goombas don’t know enough to get hurt."Got me?"A wakeup call for the belayer, used to warn her that you are about to put some weighton the rope.(pl)“Trzymasz?” / “Blokuj”GradeAnumber denoting the seriousness of a route (not to be confused with the ratingof climb, which describes the technical difficulty). In Britain, however, theword grade means both grade and rating. Look here for the differentgrades... (d) Ernsthaftigkeitsgrat, (f) engagement, (e) grado, (pl) wycena Grapevine knotFisherman's knot.GravicalTheadrenaline high felt with a lot of air between you and ground level. 'This isgravical, dude'.Grease, toNot beingable to hold on to a particularly slick hold, due to the presence of sweat,lactic acid or sand. Not uncommon in overused crags GrodleClimbingEnglish for awesome or cool.GrounderA fallwhere the kinetic energy is not absorbed by the rope and pro, but rather bymother earth itself. Can hurt badly. (d) Bodensturz, (f) chute au solGrigriNiftybut somewhat controversial belaying device made by Petzl. GrippedParalyzedwith fear and utterly confused. GullyA wide,shallow ravine on a mountainside. GumbieAlsospelled Gumby. An inexperienced or new rock climber. HHACEHighAltitude Cerebral Edema. Liquid in the brain as a result of high altitudeexposure. Few people live to tell what it is like.(f) oedème du cerveauHalf ropeA rope of9 or 8.5 mm that has to be used together with a second rope when leading aclimb. (d) Halbseil, (f) corde derappel, (nl) half touw, (i) mezza corda, (e) media cuerda, (s) halvrep, (pl)lina polowka HandjamSlightlymasochistic technique where the hand is wedged into a crack. (d) Handklemmer, (f) verrou(de main), (nl) handklem, (i) incastro di mani, (e) encuñadura de mano / -depalmas, (e-argentina) empotrar la mano HandleBigbanana-shaped hold often found in indoor gyms. Great for waving hello to admiringbystanders. It may sound bizarre, but I've never seen one of those outdoors... (d) Henkel, (f) poignée /baquet / poignée de métro (parisians only) (nl) handvat, (pl) klama Hangdog, toSeeDog. HAPEHigh AltitudePulmonary Edema. Liquid in the lungs as a result of high altitude exposure.Pretty serious condition that can quickly lead to HACE if a descent to loweraltitudes is not made immediately. See also HACE. (f) oedème du poumonHardman / hardwomanA climberwith seemingly superhero strength who has survived epics of grandioseproportions.HarnessPieceof clothing that identifies you as a climber. The coolness factor can besignificantly enhanced by hanging things from the harness that go cling. (d) Klettergurt, (f) baudrier/baudard, (f-c) baudrier/cuissard, (nl)klimgordel, (i) imbragatura, (e) arnés, (s) klättersele, (pl) uprzazHaul bagLargeand robust bag used to haul food, water, climbing gear, sleeping bag,television, satelite dish, and other essential equipment that is required, up abig wall. Also know as "the pig". (d) Materialsack /Nachziehsack, (f) sac, (i) sacco da recupero, (e) petate / costal de escalada,(s) hissack HeadwallWherethe face of a mountain steepens dramatically. "Help"Thevocal alternative to 6 signals a minute. In far away countries, try S.O.S. -- it doesn't meananything but isunderstood by most. (d) "Hilfe", (f) "Au secours", (nl) "Help", (i)"Aiuto", (e) socorro/ayuda, (s) "Hjälp" HelmetSolidplastic device that can sometimes protect the head from falling stones orimpact (Aka a brainbucket). (d) Helm, (f) casque, (nl) helm, (i) casco, (e) casco, (s) hjälm, (pl) kask,(sl) prilbaHerbishTheopposite of grodle. Notall that awesome. HexShortfor Hexentrix. A type of nut with an excentric hexadiagonal shape. Works forwedging (as a nut) but also for camming. HuecoAbeautifully shaped pocket with a positive lip named after these incrediblefeatures found at the Hueco Tanks bouldering area in Texas. HMSKaribinerwith one wide side used for belaying with a munter hitch (aka pearabiner). Fromthe German term for munter hitch belay: 'Halbmastwurfsicherung'. (d) HMS, (i) moschettone apera, (s) HMS-knut, (pl) HMS (karabinek gruszkowaty) HoldAnythingthat can be held on to. (d) Griff, (f) Prise, (nl)Greep, (i) Appiglio / Presa, (e) Presa / agarre, (e-argentina) Toma, (s) Grepp,(pl) ChwytHornSpike ofrock that can be for a great hold or not so great protection. The same as achickenhead. Hurtin unitThatmember of the climbing team that is suffering from severe exposure to alcoholicbeverages the night before. IIce axeDeviceused for ice climbing, glacier crossing, or scaring away burglars. (d) Eispickel / Eisbeil, (f) Piolet, (nl) IJsbijl, (i) Piccozza, (e) Piolet,(s) Isyxa, (pl) Czekan Ice screwAprotection device for ice climbing. Looks like a large bolt that can be screwedin hard ice. (d) Eisschraube, (f) Broche à glace, (i) Vite da ghiaccio, (e) Tornillo parahielo, (s) Isskruv, (pl) sruba lodowaItalian hitchMunterhitch knot or HMS knot (pl) Polwyblinka JJam, toWedgingbody parts in a crack. (d) Klemmen, (f) Faire unverrou / Faire un coincement / Coincer, (i) Incastrarsi, (e) Encuñar,(e-argentina) Empotrar, (s) Jamma, (pl) KlinowacJingusGnarly,sharp, hard, or radical. Often used as an expletive.JugVerylarge hold (short for jug handle) (Aka "bucket" in the US). (d) Henkel / Kelle, (f) Poignée, (nl) bak, (i) Vasca / Fibbia, (e-argentina)Manija, (s) Brevlåda, (pl) KlamaJugsBigwall lingo for Jumars or any other type of ascenders. Jug, toTojumar up a line (big wall lingo).(f) monter aujumarJumarA type ofrope ascending device. Jumar, toToascend a rope using ascenders. (d) Jumaren, (f) Monter au jumar, (e) Jumarear, (s) Jumarera KKarabinerMetalconnecting device, sometimes spelled with a 'c' in the US. This most essential climbingdevice is also known as a "biner" in the US and as "crab"or "krab" (mostly) in the UK.(d) Karabiner, (f) mousqueton, (nl) karabiner / mousqueton, (i) moschettone,(e) mosquetón / mosquete, (s) karbin / karbinhake, (pl) karabinekKernmantle ropeModernclimbing rope consisting of bundles of continuous nylon filaments (Kern)surrounded by a braided protective sheath (Mantle). (d) Kernmantelseil kNKilonewton. An abbreviation usually found on karabiners and other climbing gear. Forthose of you who are not engineers, one kilonewton is about 100 kg or about 220lbs. (And for those of you who are, don't bother lecturing me). Knotted cordPieceof cord with a knot tied into the end that is used for protection (pretty muchlike a nut). The traditional method of protecting climbs, and still used in theElbsandsteingebirge in Eastern Germany. (d) Knotenschlinge, (f) Cordenouée, (i) Cordino annodato KrabShortfor Karabiner. LLargo startA climbor bouldering problem where the first move starts with a jump for high holds.Named after John Long (or 'Largo').Layback/LiebackSomewhatclumsy looking climbing technique where hands and feet work in opposition. (d) Piazen/hangeln, (f) Dülfer / opposition, (i) Dulfer (Opposizione), (e)Dülfer, (s) Layback LeaderPersonwho leads a climb. (d) Vorsteiger, (f) Premier (de cordée), (nl) Voorklimmer, (i) Primo, (e)Primero / puntero, (s) Försteman, (pl) Prowadzacy Lead, toToascend a climb from the bottom up, placing protection (or clipping protection)as you go. (d) Vorsteigen, (f) Grimperen tête, (nl) Voorklimmen, (i) Andare da capocardata, andare da primo, (e)Puntear / guiar, (s) Leda, (pl) ProwadzicLedgeFlatbit on a rock (can be miniature or gigantic). (d) Leiste (small) / Absatz (large) / Band (large laterally extended ledge),(f) Réglette/vire ("vire" is somewhere between a microledge and aparty ledge), (nl) Rand(je), (i) Cengia, (e) Repisa, (s) Hylla, (pl) PolkaLimestoneType ofrock found in abundance in southern France (usually white and full of pocketsand holds). (d) Kalkstein, (f) calcaire, (nl) kalksteen, (i) calcare, (e) roca calcárea,(s) kalksten, (pl) wapienLocking binerKarabinerthat can be locked (in the UK, a screwgate or twistlock).(d) Verschlusskarabiner / Schrauber, (f) Mousqueton à vis, (nl)Schroefkarabiner, (i) Moschettone a ghiera, (e) Mosquetón de seguro, (s)Låskarbin / Skruvkarbin Lock-offTo holdon to the rock with one bent arm while using the other arm to reach up for thenext hold or to place or clip protection. Lockoffs on small holds will get youpumped in a hurry. (d) Blockieren / Fixieren, (f) Bloquer, (nl) Blokkeren, (i) Bloccaggio, (e)Bloquear, (s) Lesa / Binda av LoweringTodescend something or somebody. (d) Ablassen, (f) Descendre en moullinette / mouliner, (nl) Zakken/naar benedenlaten, (i) Calare, (e) Bajar / descender a alguien, (s) Fira ner MMankyTermused to describe a fixed bolt that looks like it was placed before the last iceage. Use these bolts at your own discretion (d) Rosthaken, (f) Clou pourri/clou rouillé MantleDifficultbalancing move useful to get up on ledges. (d) (Durch)-stützbewegung, (f) Rétablissement, (i) Ristabilimento, (s)Mantla Mixed climbingClimbingwith a combination of different methods of ascent. e.g mixed free and aidclimbing, mixed rock and ice climbing, etc. (f) escalade mixte, (pl)wspinaczka mieszanaMoatThe gapbetween snow and ice on a rock wall. Has posed problems ever since the middleages. Mountain rescueThepeople who put their life on the line when you screw up badly. (d) Bergrettung, (f) Secoursen montagne, (i) Soccorso alpino, (e) Rescate de montaña, (s) Bergräddning MungeThedirt and vegetation that can sometimes be found in cracks. In the UK: Choss.Multi pitch climbClimbthat consists of more than a single pitch. (d) Mehrseillaengentour, (f) voie de plusieurs longueurs, (nl) klim van meerderetouwlengtes, (i) via da piu' tiri, (e) ruta de varios largos, (s) tur med flerareplängder(?), (pl) droga kilku wyciagowa / wspinaczka wielowyciagowaMunter hitchKnotused for belaying (Aka italian hitch or friction hitch). The Germans love this knot(see HMS).(d) Halbmastwurf, (f)Demi-cabestan, (nl) Halve mastworp, (i) Mezzo barcaiolo, (e-argentina) Nudodinamico, (s) Munterknut  NNailingAnancient term used to describe direct-aid climbing with pitons. NeedleRockwith a characteristic pointed shape. Also known as pinnacle, aiguille,gendarme, etc. (d) Nadel / Spitze, (f) Aiguille / Gendarme, (i) Guglia / Pinnacolo, (e) Aguja,(s) Pinnakel, (pl) Igla NévéConsolidatedgranular snow formed by repeated freeze-and-thaw cycles. Also used to indicatepermanent snowfields. (f) Névé NotchA smallcol.(d) Scharte, (f) BrècheNutMetalwedge used for protection in cracks. (d) Klemmkeil, (f) Coinceur, (nl) Nut , (i) Dado, (e) Nuez, (s) Kil, (pl) KoscNut keyThepiece of metal that Americans call a nut tool. Nut toolPieceof metal that can be used to remove stuck nuts or cams. In the UK: nut key.(d) Keilenentferner, (f)Décoinceur/sardine, (i) Cavadadi, (e) Sacanueces, (s) Kilpetare O"Off Belay"Yelledwhen the climber no longer requires a belay (e.g. because she/he has reached astance). Once the belayer hears "off belay", he/she removes the ropefrom the belay device and yells "belay off". In UK, Australia and NewZealand: "Safe".(d) "Stand" ("Aussicher"), (f) "Relais, vaché!",(nl) "Stand", (i) "Posto" / "Molla", (e)"Libre", (e-argentina) "autoasegurado", (s) "Läggav", (pl) "Mam auto" Off widthA climbtoo wide to jam, too small to chimney. And then I've heard of people whoactually like this kind of climbing. (d) Schulterriß, (f) Offwidth, (e) Off width, (pl) Rysa szersza niz piesc "On Belay ???"Queryto verify if the belayer is ready to secure the climber (US only). (d) "Kann ich kommen?", (f) "Tu me prends ???", (i)"Sei pronto ???", (e) "?Subo?" / "?estás listo?",(s) "Sakring klar ???", (pl) "Moge isc?"On-sight flashLeadinga climb with no falls and no dogging and without any prior attempts, watchingsomeone do it or beta on how to do the moves. (f) Enchaîner en tête à vue,(i) A vista, (e) A vista Open bookSame asa dihedral or inside corner. Two panes of rock join in an acute or obtusecorner that faces left or right. Outside cornerAlsoknown as pillar or arete. (d) Kante, (f) Pilier, (nl) Pijler, (i) Pilastro Over-cam, toCompressinga cam to its absolute minimum size during placement, effectively eliminatingthe possibility of extraction.Overhand knotAsimple (but solid) knot in a double rope. (d) Sackstich, (f) noeud de queue de vache, (i) Nodo delle guide, (e) Nudosimple, (s) överhandsknut, (pl) Kluczka  Overhand loopThesimplest type of knot possible. (d) Kreuzschlag, (f) Queue de vache, (e) Gasa, (pl) Klucka z uchem OverhangRock(or ice) that is "more than vertical". (d) Ueberhang, (f) Surplomb(=strong overhang) or dévers (=slight overhang),(nl) overhang, (i) Strapiombo, (e) Desplome / Extraplomo, (s) Överhäng, (pl)PrzewieszenieOver-kilnedAboiler plate or flaky rock PPassThelowest passage between two mountains. The french - but not just the french -know this as a col. The mathematicians would call this the saddle point. (d) Pass, (f) col, (i) sella/ colle / passo / valico, (e) collado / puerto, (s) pass, (pl) przelecz, (sl)sedloParty ledgeAsomewhat larger ledge used to rest (and party !) during a particularly hard orlong climb. Sometimes used to refer to the belay station on a multipitch climb.(f) terrasse ("vire" is a somewhat narrower ledge), (i) terrazza,(nl) plateau, (e) repisa pendulumA swingon the rope, either intentional to gain a distant anchor on big wall climbs orunintentional when falling during a traverse with not enough pro in place. (d) pendeln / Pendelquergang,(f) pendule, (i) (traversata a) pendolo, (e) péndulo, (s) pendeltravers /pendla, (pl) wahadlo PigThehaul bag using for big wall climbing. (d) Sau PillarOutsidecorner (d) Pfeiler, (f) pilier, (nl) pijler, (i) pilastro, (e) pilar, (s) pelare, (pl)igla / filarPimp, toTo do ashort semi-dynamic stab. It's not quite a dynamic move, but it's also not quitestatic. It's the happy median.Pink pointTored-point a climb where the pro and runners have been pre-placed. (d) Rotpunkt mit eingehängten Schlingen (Rotkreuz ???) PitchAsection of climb between two belays and no longer than the length of one rope(this used to mean 45m, nowadays pitches can also be 50 or even 60m long --check your topo). (d) Seillaenge, (f) longueur, (nl) touwlengte, (i) tiro, (e) largo (de cuerda),(s) replängd, (pl) wyciagPitonMetalspike hammered into a crack (has come in disuse for all but some specialapplications) (Aka "peg" in the UK). (d) Haken, (f) piton, (nl) (mep)haak,(i) chiodo, (e) pitón / clavo PocketA holdformed by a (small) depression in the rock. (d) Loch/Fingerloch, (f) trou à doigt, (nl) gat/vingergat, (i) buca da dito,(s) ficka, (pl) dziurkaPortaledgeAhanging tent with built in bed used on big walls (and big trees). Pro, ProtectionAnchorsplaced during the climb to protect the leader. Beware: even properly placed prodoes not prevent pregnancy or the transmission of STDs. (d) Sicherungsmittel, (f) protection, (nl) zekering, (i) protezione, (e)protección / anclaje, (s) säkring, (pl) asekuracja PrusikThesliding knot or the method to ascend a rope (named after its inventer Dr. KarlPrusik). (d) Prusik, (f) Prusik, (nl) Prusik, (i) Prusik, (e) Prusik, (s) Prusik PumpedThefeeling of overworked muscles. Most climbers are familiar with the forearmpump: too much finger work causes the forearms to swell and the strength todisappear. With a serious forearm pump, even holding a glass of beer can becomea serious challenge. (d) dicke Arme (or any other body part), (f) avoir les bouteilles / daubé, (nl)verzuurd, (i) acciaiato, (s) pumpad PumpyDescribesa climb that will leave you pumped. QQuickdraw, quickShortsling with karabiners on either side. (d) Expreßschlinge, (f) Dégaine, (nl) setje, (i) Rinvio / Preparato / sveltina,(e) cintas express, (s) Expresslinga / Kortslinga, (pl) Expres RRackTheclimbing gear carried during an ascent. (d) Materialsortiment, (f)matériel / matos, (i) equipaggiomento / assortimento di materiale, (e) bandolera/ bandola, (s) racka / utrustning, (pl) sprzet / spejRack, toTo sortthe rack before engaging on the next climb or pitch.RadNottrad. Slang for sport climbing. Rally, toToclimb exceptionally well, especially on normally difficult climbs. (f) randonnerRampAnascending ledge(d) Rampe Rappel, toAlso:to rap. Descending by sliding down a rope. Known in Britain (and Germany) asabseiling.(d) Abseilen, (f) Descendreen rappel, (nl) Afdalen/abseilen (i) Calare (in corda doppia), (e) Rapelear,(s) Fira, (pl) ZjezdzacRappelerIndividualwho enjoys sliding down ropes instead of climbing up rocks. The second-lowestform of life on earth (second only to the touron)RatingAnumber denoting the technical difficulty of the climb. See herefor more on ratings and grades. (d) Schwierigkeitsgrat, (f) CotationR.D.S.RapidDeceleration Syndrome. Militaryterm for the very sudden illness that happens at the end of a long fall.RedpointTo leada climb without falling or dogging after a number of attempts. This isdifferent from onsight, where the climb is lead without falling or dogging onits first attempt. (d) Rotpunkt, (f) Enchaîner,(i) Arrampicare in libera, (pl) RPResinAnalternative to chalk. Resin (or "pine tree resin" to use its fullname) is made from the yucky stuff that sticks to your hands when you touch apine tree. Because resin is mostly colorless, it is preferred to chalk in someareas. But caution: Don't let the color fool you. Resin can do permanent damageto the rock and in fact is not allowed anywhere in the US for that reason.(d) Pof, (f) pof, (nl) pof, (i) resina, (e) resina, (s) harts, (pl) zywicaResident protectionFixed pro.RibA slenderbuttress. Something between a buttress and an outside corner. RidgeThehigh divide extending out from a peak. (d) Grat (extending normally from one peak) / Kamm (connecting several peaks),(f) Crête (small) or chaîne (large)RingA large(2 inch diameter) ring that is cemented in the rock as a bolt. Rings are verycommon in Germany and France and are excellent for rappelling and hangingbelays.(d) Ring, (f) Scellement,(nl) Ring, (i) Anello da calata, (s) Ringbult, (pl) Ring"Rock"Screamlet out to warn people down below that a piece of rock has been overcome bygravity. The loudness, number of repetitions, and/or panic in voice with whichthis word is uttered is often an indication of the seriousness of the rock. Inthe UK, you're more likely to hear "Below", beware! (d) "Stein", (f) "Pierre" / "Caillou", (i)"Sasso", (e) "Piedra", (s) "Sten", (pl)"Kamien" RoofSeriouslyoverhanging part in a climb (more or less horizontal). (d) Dach, (f) toit/plafond, (nl) dak, (i) tetto, (e) techo, (s) tak, (pl) dach/ okapRopeLongand round nylon fabrication. Climbing ropes are generally between 10 and 11 mmin diameter (with the exception of "half ropes" which are between 8.5and 9mm in diameter). (d) Seil, (f) corde, (nl)touw, (i) corda, (e) cuerda, (s) rep, (pl) lina, (sl) lano"Rope"Shouldbe yelled when a rope is about to be thrown to the base of the crag (thoughmost of the time it seems like "rope" is shouted about 1-2 seconds afterthe rope is thrown). In the UK, shout "Rope below". (d) "Seil", (f)"Corde", (nl) "Touw", (i) "Corda", (e)"Cuerda", (e-argentina) "va cuerda", (s) "Rep",(pl) "Uwaga lina" RouteAcertain path up a rock or mountain. (d) Tour, (f) voie, (nl)route, (i) via, (e) ruta, (s) led, (pl) droga, (sl) cestaRunnerA loopof tape or webbing either sewn or tied (Aka sling, especially in the UK). Inthe UK, a 'runner' is a running belay.(d) Schlinge, (f) Sangle, (i)Anello, (e) Anilla, (s) Slinga, (pl) Talma ?, (pl) PetlaRunnerArunner threaded or looped around chockstones, flakes, horns or chickenheads forprotection. (d) Zackenschlinge RunoutDistancebetween two elements of pro. A route is "runout" when the distancebetween those two elements of pro becomes uncomfortably long. (d) Abstand zwischen 2 Sicherungspunkten, (f) (Une voie est) Engagée, (i) Viaprotetta lunga, (e) Ruta poco protegida, (pl) Odleglosc miedzy punktamiasekuracji SSaddleA highpass that looks somewhat like the horsewear. Not quite as steep as a col. (d)Sattel, (pl) siodlo"Safe"TheBritish equivalent of "Off Belay". (d) "Stand", (f) "Relais" / "Vâché", (nl)"Stand", (i) "Posto" / "Molla", (e)"Libre", (s) "Lägg av", (pl) "Mam auto" SchwagTerrible rockconditions.ScramblingEasyclimbing, usually unroped. (d) Kraxeln, (f) Escalade facile, (e) Trepar, (s) Lätt Klättring ScreamerA very,very long fall. (f) Méga-plomb, (i) Mina /Randa, (pl) Dlugi lot ScreamerSpecialpiece of equipment meant to reduce the impact of a screamer (the fall) on thebelay system. (i) Dissipatore ScreeLooserocks and stones that cover the slope below a cliff. With every step, screeslides under your feet. (d) Geröll, (f) éboulis /caillasse, (pl) piargScrewgateThetype of karabiner that can be locked with a screw. See also twistlock. In theUS this is usually called a 'locking biner'. ScrubeAhammer-in, screw-out type of ice screw.SecondTheclimber who follows the leader. See also following. (d) Nachsteiger, (f) Second,(i) Secondo, (e) Segundo, (pl) Drugi na linieSend, toToclimb a route with ease. "I'm gonna send this route, dude!" SeracA blockor tower of ice on a steep glacier or in an ice fall. Since seracs are createdby the force of gravity working on the glacier or ice fall, they can come downat any moment.(pl)serakSewing-machine leg or armA leg(or arm) under tension that suddenly starts jerking up and down like a sewingmachine. Stretch the muscle, take a deep breath, and don't think of falling...(see also: to Elvis or thedeathwobbles). (d) Nähmaschine, (s) Symaskin, (pl) TelegrafSewn-upWhen somuch gear is on a trad route that it looks like it has been sewn shut.Sharp endThe endof the rope to which the leader is attached. SH** !Oftenheard during a fall... (Well educated climbers in the UK sometimes say"sugar" - but only if they're not in too much trouble). (d) Scheisse !, (f) Merde!, (f-c) "Chite!", (nl) Shit!, (i)"Merda!", (e) Mierda!, (s) Djävlar!, (pl) Cholera / Kurcze / KurdeShort ropingTechniquewhere both climbers are tied close together into the middle of the rope. Therest of the rope is then carried over the shoulders in a coil. Frequently usedfor simul-climbing. The term (and technique?) is used frequently in theCanadian Rockies. (d) am kurzen (or:verkürzten) Seil gehen, (f) faire des anneaux de corde, les anneaux á la main. Short ropingBelayingtechnique where the belayer keeps the leader under tension in an attempt reducethe length of a fall. Side pullA handhold that needs to be held with a horizontal (sideways) pull. (d) Piaz-Griff / Seitgriff, (f) Prise verticale, (i) Maniglia rovescia, (s)Sidotag / Sidogrepp, (pl) OdciagSit startTostart a bouldering problem from a sitting position. See also 'Yabo Start'.Sierra waveAlenticular cloud found mostly in the Sierras, but known to be forebode of badweather in the Mont Blanc area.(f) ÂneSketch padAcushion used for bouldering.SkyhookAparticular type of hook used for aid climbing(f) Crochet à goutte d'eauSlabFlatand seemingly featureless, not quite vertical piece of rock. (d) Platte, (f) Dalle, (nl)Plaat, (i) Lastra / Lastrone / Placca, (e) Laja, (s) Sva / Platta, (pl) pologaplyta"Slack"Yelledwhen the climber needs more rope (e.g. to clip into protection). (d) "Seil", (f)"Du mou", (nl) "Touw", (i) "Corda"("Lasco"), (e) "Cuerda", (s) "Slacka", (pl)"Luz"SlingWhatthe Americans call a runner.SlingshotAtoprope setup where the belayer belays on the ground (where the climber startsclimbing) and the rope is pre-clipped through the anchor at the top of theclimb. In the UK, top-roping or bottom-roping (depends where the belayerstands).SloperPatheticdownward slanting hold. (Usually look like buckets from below.)(d) (Abschüssiger) Aufleger, (f) Prise fuyante, (i) Appiglio spiovente SmearingFoottechnique where a big part of the climbing shoe is used to generate as muchfriction as possible. The opposite of edging. (d) auf Reibung stehen, (f) grimper en adhérence, (i) aderenza, (e) fricción,(s) smeara, (pl) wspinanie na tarcie SnaplinkA trulyBritish word for a karabiner. Softman / softwomanAformer hardman/woman who can accomplish climbs of epicproportion in comfortable style. Always has the warmest jacket, the biggestsleeping pad, the best food, and the finest of consumables. A title to aspirefor.SoloingClimbingalone, though not necessarily without the protection of a rope (unless you'rein the UK, where a solo is always a free solo). (d) solo klettern, (f)soloer, (e) escalar en solitario, (pl) wspinaczka solowaSport climbingClimbingroutes of (extreme ?) gymnastic difficulty while protection oneself by clippingcopiously numbered and generously spaced preplaced free protection. (d) sportklettern, (f)escalade sportive, (nl) sportklimmen, (i) arrempicata sportiva, (e) escaladadeportiva (s) sportklättring, (pl) wspinaczka sportowaSpray, toTo bragor gloat.Stem, toBridgingwith the feet between two holds (US only). (d) spreizen, (f) se mettreen opposition, (i) opposizione, (e) oposición, (s) stämma / sprajsa "Stick it"Americanslang meaning "hold on" or "go for it". (f) "allez !", (e)"asegura" Sticht plateA belaydevice consisting of a plate with two slots in it. An original creation byFranz Sticht. (d) Sticht Bremse, (f) plaquette d'assurage, (f-c) plaque-frein, (i) piastrinasticht, (e) placa Sticht, (s) stichtbroms StokedFiredup, ready to play, very excited, really wanting to finish a particular climb.Stylin’Lookinggood, climbing well, having the most colorful clothing.Stylin’Livinglike a softman or softwoman.SummitThe topof a mountain or rock. (d) Gipfel, (f) sommet, (nl) top, (i) cima, (e) cima / cumbre, (s) topp, (pl)szczytSummit, toToreach the summit. (d) gipfeln, (e) encumbrar,(pl) wejsc na wierzcholek T"Take"Americanmonosyllable for "Up Rope". Also used by top-ropers andsports-climbers to indicate that they have reached the top and want to belowered.(d) "Seil ein" / "zu" / "dicht", (f) "avale", (e)"recupera", (pl) "wybierz""Take in"TheBritish equivalent of "Up Rope". (d) "Seil ein"/("Zieh an"), (f) "Avale",(i) Recupera, (s) "Tag hem", (pl) "Wybierz" "Taking in"Heardoften in British crags, meaning the climber is "off belay" and aboutto pull up the slack between him and the belayer. (f) "J'avale" TalusLarge blocksof rock. A coarse variation of scree. Tape knotOr threadedoverhand knot inthe US.TarnA smalllake. 10essentialsThatpart of your climbing gear you don't want to leave at home. "Tension!"Yelledout to the belayer to make sure he really takes in the slack. Usually"tension" is used by a climber that is ready to pop off. Theprogression of severity usually goes "up rope", "tight rope","tension!".(f) "Bloque""That's me"Part ofthe climbing dialogue. Courtesy call to the belayer to indicate that the slackin the rope is all taken up and that further pulling is pointless. (d) "Seil aus", (f)"Bout de corde", (pl) "Koniec luzo" Third classingClimbingwithout a rope on easy ground (see also class)Threaded overhandSolidbut not failproof knot also known as water knot or tape knot (UK), or ring bendwhen used on webbing.(d) Sackstich in Ringform,(e) Nudo encontrado ThrutchyRequiringa whole lot of strength (and enthusiasm in a way). Used in Australia - whereall the climbing is upside down.Tick marksLittlesmears of chalk used to locate holds when bouldering."Tight rope"Or just"Tight". Urgent request to the belayer to take the slack out of thesystem. Somewhat stronger than "up rope". (f) "Sec", (f-c)"a sec", (e) "Tensa" ToeThebottom of a buttress. TopoA shortdrawing of the route. Good topos will allow you to spot the line right away, showthe placement of bolts and belay stances, indicate where the crux is and whatrating it has. (f) Topo, (i) Topo, (e) Topo Top-ropeFreeclimbing a route that has the safety rope attached to the top of the climb(usually one walks to the top to set up the top-rope belay). (d) Toprope / Seil von oben, (f) Moulinette, (nl) Toprope, (i) Corda dall'alto,(e) Yoyo, (s) Topprep, (pl) WedkaTouronA crossbetween a tourist and a moron. Typically asks stupid questions like “How didyou get the rope up there?” Definitely the lowest form of life on earth.TradTraditionalclimbing, characterized by the placing of protection (cams, nuts, etc.) incracks and pockets. Trad also includes multi-pitch routes often with longrunouts.(d) Traditionelles, AlpinesKlettern, (f) Classique, (nl) Alpijns klimmen, (i) Tradizionale, (e) Escaladatradicional /clásica Trad fallA fallduring a trad climb, sometimes accompanied by the popping sound of protectionsuccumbing to the temptations of gravity. See also 'crater' and 'screamer'. (f) Devissage TraverseHorizontalclimb. (d) Quergang, (f) Traversée, (nl) Traverse, (i) Traverso, (e) Travesiacute;a,(s) Travers, (pl) TrawersTruckerSynomymfor 'Bomber'. A trustworthy piece of pro. TunnelAtunnel through or hourglass shape in the rock that allows a runner or cord tobe fed through for protection. (d) Sanduhr, (f) Lunule, (i)Clessidra, (nl) Zandloper, (e) Túnel TwistlockAlocking karabiner where the gate is locked with a spring-loaded clip. UUnderclingA holdthat would be a perfect bucket if gravity were upside down. As it is,underclings are usually awkward holds that require lieback type moves. (d) Untergriff, (f) Inversée,(nl) Ondergreep, (i) Presa rovescia, (e) Undercling, (e-argentina) Tomainvertida, (pl) podchwyt "Up Rope"Yelledby the leader or the follower when she/he wants a tighter belay. (In UK:"Take in" or "Tight" or even "Watch me"). (d) "Seil ein", (f) "Sec" / "Avale", (nl)"Blok", (i) "Recupera", (e) "Tensa", (s) "Tahem", (pl) "Wybierz" VVerglasThinwater ice on rock. (f) Verglas, (pl) OblodzenieVôgenGreat,super. "Everything's vôgen." WWarthogAroughened spike hammered into certain kinds of ice or frozen turf forprotection. Very popular on mixed climbs in the UK"Watch me"Call toindicate the climber is about to do something stupid -- like fall. (d) "Pass auf", (f)"Fais gaffe", (nl) "Let op", (i)"Occhio" /"Guardami bene" / "Tiemmi tirato", (e) "Cuídame",(s) "Beredd?", (pl) Water iceIceformed directly from frozen water. Water ice is clear and brittle and containsfew air bubbles. Sometimes water is even flowing around the ice. Can be foundin the couloirs of the High Sierra in autumn (and in many other places). Water knotSeetape knot.(d) Bandschlingenknoten, (e) Nudo encontrado, (s) Vattenknop, (pl) Wezel wodny WayExtremely.“I was way scared on that run-out”.Webbing (tubular)Flatand strong strip of nylon, that is hollow in the inside. (d) Schlauchband , (f) Sangle (tubulaire), (nl) Schlinges, (i) Fetucciatubolare, (e) Cinta tubular, (s) Tubband, (pl) Tasma rurowa Webbing (loop of)Arunner made of webbing. (d) Bandschlinge, (f) Sangle(anneau de), (i) Anello di cordin / Anello di fettucia, (e) Anilla, (s) Slinga WeightingThedelicate test of placing weight on a piece of pro after placing it. Usuallywith aid climbing.WhipperA verylong fall. White iceIcewith lots of air bubbles that forms from melted-and-frozen snow. Good climbingstuff. (f) Glace blancheWombingDoing ano-hands-rest. WoodieAhomemade climbing wall. (f) Pan X Y YaboAs in'yabo start'. A 'sit start'.Named after John Yablonski a stud southern California climber, who was nicknamedYabo.Yard, toTo pullon a piece of protection. Strictly speaking aid climbing.YDSYosemiteDecimal System. The North-American rating system. ZZawnA deepand narrow fold or inlet in a sea cliff. British.ZipperA fallwhere the protection pulls out one after the other as the leader succumbs togravity. Often ends with a grounder (or a cardiac arrest). (d) Reißverschlusssturz, (f) Déboutonner (verb), (pl) SuwakZ-Pulley SystemComplicatedrope setup that allows you to hoist heavy weights with relatively little force.Excellent for rescuing or hauling bags. (d) Flaschenzug, (f) Moufflage Created with icons from: Last modified 5 December 2000. Copyright © by Carl Ockier |
|
