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z930=zpreC(930,48);if(thin){z930=0};z160=zpreC(160,600);z336=zpreC(336,280);z728=zpreC(728,90);z155=zpreC(336,155);zItw=160;if(thin)gEI('abw').className='thin';Search Climbingvar h2=document.getElementsByTagName("h2")[0];if(h2.getElementsByTagName("a")[0].firstChild.nodeValue.length>28)h2.className="long";HomeSportsClimbingif(z930==0 && z728>0){adunit('','',uy,ch,gs,728,90,'1','lb',1)} Emailw(x2+zWl+'?p=1" zT="18/1[N" rel="nofollow">Print')Climbing if(z930>0){adunit('','',uy,ch,gs,930,48,'1','s',1)}Must ReadsYour Climbing SafetyLearn How to Climb10 Safety Tips6 Climbing KnotsDictionary of Climbing  Stewart GreenClimbing Guide Sign up for my NewsletterMy Bio My BlogMy Forum Browse TopicLet's Go ClimbingLearn How to ClimbClimbing EquipmentClimbing KnotsClimbing SkillsWhere to ClimbMountain ClimbingStay Safe ClimbingHistory of ClimbingTop ClimbersClimbing Books and QuotesClimbing PhotosClimbing GlossaryClimbing BlogsLearn How to Climb Ready! Set! Climb!Learn to rock climb by following this beginner's guide to climbing in an indoor gym. Get outfitted, tie in and start climbing.Read moreFurther ReadingLearn How to Climb: Climbing The WallLearn How to Climb: Lowering Back DownLearn How to Climb: 10 Rock Shoe Buying Tips For BeginnersGet Inspired to Get Climbing New Mexico Rock Climbing Garden of the Gods Photos zob();Climbing Skills: You Need Skills to Climb You need to learn lots of skills to climb safely. You need to belay; to crimp and edge up vertical faces; to jam cracks; to set up anchors; to rappel; to boulder; and to climb fast and furious. Learn the skills to climb better and have more fun.Read moreLearn New Climbing SkillsSpeed Climbing Makes You BetterUsing Climbing Voice CommandsThe Art of Bouldering Stewart's Climbing BlogAdd to: iGoogleMy Yahoo!RSSPat Ament: Climbing Quote of the WeekMonday October 6, 2008
Pat Ament, now living in Fruita, Colorado, grew up in Boulder and began climbing on the surrounding cliffs in the late 1950s as a young lad. In the 1960s Pat became a pioneering free climber and a superb boulderer under the tutelage of the legendary John Gill. In the sixties, he was fortunate to be part of a climbing community, including many of America’s greatest climbers like Layton Kor, who established most of the great classic climbs in the Boulder area and made nearby Eldorado Canyon one of the crucibles of American free climbing. Some of Pat’s free ascents, including Supremacy Crack, Northwest Corner of The Bastille, and Athlete’s Feat, were among the hardest free climbs in the United States.
This quote comes from Ament’s 1996 book Stories of a Young Climber, an autobiography that chronicles his climbing days and life from childhood until the mid-1990s. Pat wrote me a couple years ago that this was not one of his favorite pieces of writing, that he felt some of his other writings were much stronger, but I’ve always enjoyed this book. Partly I suppose since when I began climbing in the mid-sixties, Ament already enjoyed legendary status in Colorado. The book offers an honest confession of his life and times, of the good and the bad, along with lots of anecdotes that capture the rocking good times of Boulder climbing and reads like a Jack Kerouac novel.
The quote is about climbing in Eldorado Canyon in the early sixties with the now-mythical climber Layton Kor, one of America’s greatest rock climbers and the pioneer of countless first ascents.
Layton and I did many routes together, including Exhibit A and Canary Pass in Eldorado—names he more or less pulled out of the air. Layton stared ominously into my face up close. His physical presence, with so much energy, was an invasion of my sense of individuality as well as safety. Yet the air in Eldorado felt like it belonged to us alone. Here we found a feeling of use in the world, to place a cold piton, unafraid. Each new climb was a mischievous plot, the smirking unseriousness of Kor tied into moments where he was desperately serious. Much of life chose to turn away from the thoughts, terrors, and beauty of experience. In climbing, one turned toward experience. The steep, sharp configurations of sandstone in Eldorado, their brightness, their many colors, and the variations of light, were more than the everyday, desultory life. Sometimes the sky looked ominously like rain, and drops fell, but then there was a glorious clearing that brought fresh reds, pinks, yellow, green, and blue.
Buy Pat Ament’s books:
Stories of a Young Climber: An Autobiography An entertaining autobiography about the climber, writer, filmmaker, and freight train jumper that reads like a Kerouac novel.
John Gill: Master of Rock A biography of the father of American bouldering.
Royal Robbins: Spirit of the Age Another compelling biography about one of America’s greatest rock climbers.
A History of Free Climbing in America A fascinating year by year look at the development of American climbing.
High Endeavors Another compelling autobiographical work about the life of a climber.
Photo above: Pat Ament bouldering on Flagstaff Mountain near Boulder in 1978.
Photo © Stewart M. Green
Comments (0)PermalinkChongo Hits the New York TimesSaturday October 4, 2008
There’s not a lot of good accurate writing about climbing in the mainstream media. Climbing is still a somewhat esoteric sport with an arcane jargon, and it’s difficult for nonclimbers, as almost all journalists are, to translate climbing and it’s seeming daredevil attraction to their reading public.
So it was exciting to read the great story For Rock-Climbing Guru, the Sky Is His Roof about Yosemite big wall climbing legend, writer, and vagabond Chongo, also known as Charles Victor Tucker III, by New York Times reporter Michael Brick.
Brick, who spent months researching the article from Yosemite Valley to the Loaves and Fishes homeless shelter in Sacramento, California, called Chongo the “scourge of Yosemite National Park, fixture of the lodge cafeteria. To acquaintances, he was Chuck, harmless and stoned jester of the mountains. And to climbers the world over he remains Chongo, the Monkey Man, named for the sticky soles he had once fashioned from Mexican rubber.”
To read more, go to the New York Times Sports section. Let me know here what you think of Chongo and the article. Is it an accurate portrayal of a Yosemite legend?
Check out Chongo's website.
Photo above: Chongo was the big wall master of El Cap in Yosemite.
Photo © Stewart M. Green
Comments (0)PermalinkWin a Winter Climbing Vacation!Wednesday October 1, 2008
You want a free adventure trip this winter? Maybe climb Mount Washington, New Hampshire’s highest mountain? Have an ice climbing workshop in New Hampshire? Take a snowshoe trek in Yosemite or a hut-to-hut shoeshoe trip in the White Mountains? Or have a winter mountaineering clinic in Sequoia National Park?
Any of these stellar winter getaways could you be yours if you’re the lucky winner of The Gear Junkie's Choose-Your-Adventure Sweepstakes. Between now and December 17 you can enter the sweepstakes for one of these trips run by REI Adventures in early 2009. The randomly drawn winner and a companion will take an all-expenses paid trip, including airfare, to one of the five destinations. REI will also completely outfit the lucky couple with all the essential gear including packs, clothing, snowshoes, and ice climbing equipment.
Go to Choose-Your-Adventure Sweepstakes for your chance to win. Good luck!
Comments (0)PermalinkHuman Arrow Saves the DayTuesday September 30, 2008
If you need an air evacuation of an injured climber, it helps to have a roving band of school kids to point the way. At least that’s what happened last week in Britain. A rock climber took a bad 15-foot tumble at The Roaches, a gritstone climbing area on the Peak District's western moors, and broke his leg. A cell phone call from a paramedic alerted an air ambulance to fetch him and take him to the hospital. But the helicopter pilot was having difficulty locating the victim in the rough Roaches terrain.
Students from a Nottingham school, on a hiking and climbing trek, took action. Teacher Chris Adcock told the sixteen 10- and 11-year-old pupils to line up and form a human arrow, which pointed toward the injured man. The helicopter quickly located, landed, and evacuated the victim.
Ian Clayton, operations manager for the air ambulance service, told reporters, “When the crew arrived there was quite an expanse of rocks so the helicopter was going backwards and forwards trying to identify the patient. What they then saw was a human arrow which was extremely helpful and helped them to identify the patient. One problem we have in a helicopter is that people will just stand and wave at you. Being able to point with the children was invaluable.”
Wendy Butcher, another school teacher, noted, “The pupils are always very well behaved and do as they are told.” The moral is: Keep your kids on a straight arrow path and they just might save your skin!
Photo above: The Roaches are one of Britain’s best gritstone climbing areas.
Photo © Dennis Jump
Comments (0)Permalink See More Blog EntrieszSB(2,5);Free Climbing Newsletter!Sign Upif(z336>0){w(''+ap[0]+at[4]+as[0]);adunit('','','about.com',ch,gs,336,280,'1','bb',3);w('')}if(z155>0){w(''+ap[0]+at[4]+as[0]);adunit('','','about.com',ch,gs,336,155,'1','ps',4);w('')} Discuss Recent Blog Posts Pat Ament: Climbing Quote of the Week Chongo Hits the New York Times Win a Winter Climbing Vacation! Community Forum New posts to the Climbing forums:DMP master plan comments by Oct. 14Bouldering Colorado Guidebook FurorDenali 2008 if(zp[7].d){Dsp(zp[7],'ip')}if(zp[4].d){Dsp(zp[4],'ip')}if(zp[11].d){Dsp(zp[11],'ip')}zSB(3,3)Explore ClimbingMust ReadsYour Climbing SafetyLearn How to Climb10 Safety Tips6 Climbing KnotsDictionary of ClimbingMost PopularThe Best Tie-In Knot4 Rappel Knots6 Important Climbing KnotsTop-Rope ClimbingClimbing KnotsSearchBy CategoryLet's Go ClimbingLearn How to ClimbClimbing EquipmentClimbing KnotsClimbing SkillsWhere to ClimbMountain ClimbingStay Safe ClimbingHistory of ClimbingTop ClimbersClimbing Books and QuotesClimbing PhotosClimbing GlossaryClimbing BlogssplitList(gEI('bc2').getElementsByTagName('ul')[0]); More from About.com Work Hard, Travel EasyThe best tips for business travelers. Dog CareGet tips on training and caring for dogs of all ages. 48 Hours in VegasPlan a hot weekend in Sin City. Hotel AdviceThe must-stay hotels worldwide. Browse All About.comprepareTools();zCi();validateForms();Climbingvar h2=document.getElementsByTagName("h2")[0];if(h2.getElementsByTagName("a")[0].firstChild.nodeValue.length>28)h2.className="long";HomeSportsClimbingMost PopularLatest ArticlesAdd to: iGoogleMy Yahoo!RSSAdvertising InfoNews & EventsWork at AboutSiteMapAll TopicsReprintsHelpUser AgreementEthics PolicyPatent Info.Privacy PolicyOur StoryBe a Guide©2008 About.com, a part of The New York Times Company.All rights reserved.![]() var tcdacmd="dt;da"; |
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